WHAT'S NEW IN THE GOWN GALLERY?

What do you get when you mix imported Chantilly Lace and dupion silk? Amanda. She came off the work table some two months back and I still salivate every time I get a glimpse of the luscious lace on this opulent background.

The lace drapes at the hip and is secured with two hand-rolled silk organza roses; the skirt is slightly flared with a tulle under structure.

Dupion is one of my favorite fabrics and its experiencing a comeback lately. It is elegant with a sheen and has a natural raw silk look and feel up close.

Amanda would be perfect for the less formal garden or cocktail wedding. Imagine a wide brimmed picture hat or small cocktail hat. A drop veil would change the look entirely. If you choose to go more formal, Amanda could be ordered with a built-in or detachable train. Or, as is with a cathedral style veil extending many feet beyond the hemline creating formality.

Want to see more options? Visit my new web pageshttp://amyjotatum.googlepages.com/

WAISTLINES

Photo: Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved

Think of your waistline as an intersection where bodice and skirt join to make your gown whole and complete. A waist is either defined by a horizontal seam or—in the case of a princess design—vertical seams running up the front. Waistline is a vital element; it brings balance to your silhouette and with careful utilization to this area, you can cover flaws or highlight your best features. You can drop, point, slant, blouse or curve, your waist to create the exact symmetry you want.

ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Yoke-Believe it or not your waist in this case is higher than your bust. A yoke is a bib-like piece that is joined to either a bodice panel or gathering stitches. Check out any tent dress or princess style originating form a yoke. Both were popular circa 1960s.
Empire-Pictured above, it ends just below the bust line. Skirt can be straight or full. Chic now are princess or bias cut.
Raised-Recent trend popularized by Esprit.

Natural Waistline-Pictured above. Trendy once more, it seems like decades since we’ve seen so much of the natural waist. It is however one of fashion’s best-kept secrets. While not for everyone, it works for most body types and creates a great symmetry and overall picture of you.

Dropped-Pictured opposite, a dropped waist falls about 2-4 inches below the waist. Particularly flattering to most figure types because it elongates the torso
Asymmetrical-Falls at a diagonal. It can be either a fitted or relaxed bodice.
Basque-Falls into a point about 4-5 inches below the waist. Particularly flattering to full-figured and pear-shapes when it sits atop a full gathered skirt.
U-Most flattering U-shapes are over bodices that fall over an A-line skirt.
Princess Seams-No horizontal waist seam here. The vertical seams originate from armhole or shoulder and run the length of the dress.

Draped-Pictured at right, gathers or draping take the place of darts. Can take the shape of being loose or fitted.

Seamless-Pictured below, bias cut evening gowns and slip dresses have no seams defining waist. Usually snug fitting. As I’ve said before: you must be in top physical form to wear this waistline.

Photo: Ron Greystar/All Rights Reserved

Gowns: Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal Couture

HEAD CHIC OF THE WEEK

From off beat to Betty Boop and Doris Duke, Boring Sidney's Etsy Store is a like walking into a shrine to head wear. Or is that a time tunnel? Definitely the candy store of head fashion for any aficionado of Elsa Scaparelli and golden Hollywood. According to her Etsy profile, Belle says it was in the theatre that she learned the art of Millinery. It is with a love for the bizarre and quirky, a solid sense of humor, and a driving need to create, that she started Boring Sidney/Belle Millinery 10 years ago.

Here's how Boring Sidney describes the above concoction Doxie Moxie:

"I can't remember when I have been so completely enamoured with a luscious concoction of tulle, netting and ribbons! It just transports me to a time of glamour, romance, and beauty. A better time when women wanted to be feminine and lovely, and just had to have the perfect hat.This reproduction of a 1940's Doll Hat consists of many tightly gathered layers of tulle & netting attached to a small black wool base. The hat is held on with an wool covered wire that encircles the head. Then we have several yards of black satin ribbon draped elegantly to finish it off.This hat is very stable, lightweight, and comfortable to wear."

Betty Grable Gets Married. Yes, that's the actual name of the hat this designer hand made for a client's wedding. Here's how she describes it, "1940s inspired Tilt Hat, hand constructed of buckram covered with ivory and champagne fabric. There are several bias ruffles, and a large bow gracing the back. Around the center top is a small petersham ribbon that has been hand beaded in clear and champagne swarovski crystals.There is a detachable birdcage veil.The small brim is wired and bendable if you want a different shape1940s inspired Tilt Hat, hand constructed of buckram covered with ivory and champagne fabric. There are several bias ruffles, and a large bow gracing the back. Around the center top is a small petersham ribbon that has been hand beaded in clear and champagne swarovski crystals.There is a detachable birdcage veil.The small brim is wired and bendable if you want a different shape"

Deliciously Deco White Wedding! White and ivory fascinator is made with the highest quality components. The large black flower is velvet and chiffon, behind it is an array of black feathers. There are imported emu feathers, hand curled (by me) goose biots, and hand striped(also by me) coque feathers.The overall effect is just so lovely, glamorous, and simply delicious. It is definitely an attention grabbing piece, but it is also so wearable. It would be drop dead gorgeous for your wedding or formal occasion.White and ivory fascinator is made with the highest quality components. The large black flower is velvet and chiffon, behind it is an array of black feathers. There are imported emu feathers, hand curled (by me) goose biots, and hand striped(also by me) coque feathers.The overall effect is just so lovely, glamorous, and simply delicious. It is definitely an attention grabbing piece, but it is also so wearable. It would be drop dead gorgeous for your wedding or formal occasion.

A whole array of hats and headpieces can be found on Boring Sidney's Etsy Store. Custom orders are welcome. Enjoy the site--it is fabulous. http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5007565

TOUCHES OF LACE

Photo: ejones photography/All Rights Reserved
Above:: Chantilly lace bodice and organza shawl with border

Right: Chantilly lace motif

Is there anything more simpatico with bridal wear than lace? Some brides go with just a touch of it on their wedding day, others go all out in allover lace gowns intricately beaded.
The history of lace making is an entire book or docudrama in itself and the art of making it goes back in time further than some fabric weaving. Knotting techniques actually trace back to basket making. As lace making evolved into an art form, so did demand for it.

Like fabric has a weave, lace has different patterns. Here are a few of the most common:

Alencon-Floral patterns on mesh or net background outlined in cording. Has a three-dimensional look.

Chantilly-Floral or foliage designs on a net background. Generally has a scalloped edge.

Cluny-Crocheted lace in heavy cotton also known as Irish lace. Chic in the swinging 1960s for mini wedding dresses and granny gowns.

Eyelet-Actually a woven cotton with eyelet cutouts and embroidery.

Peau d'Ange-Delicate version of Chantilly lace made with a flossier yarn.

Schiffli-Embroidered design on a mesh or organza background. Typically has a scalloped border.

Venice-Heavy lace with raised designs. Usually a single motif with an open background.

Above Left: Allover Chantilly lace wedding dress.

Above Right: Dress detail. Chantilly lace with scalloped edge

Above: Peau d'Ange lace. A delicate version of Chantilly



Eyelet bodice detail: eyelets and embroidery






Full view of eyelet dress







Gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum

SHOE CHIC

Oeil Photography/All Rights Reserved

Comfort first but hey, what better occassion to show off your Jimmy Choos? Once upon a time etiquette dictated there was one type of shoe you could wear on your wedding day: closed toe pumps in white or ivory peau satin.
While closed toe satin is still elegant, so are these gold metallic mules and the white t-straps below. Both would pair up nicely with just about any silhouette.

While the styles pictured here are tres chic now, you can go beyond and be daring if you want. Have a pair of those pink vintage stilettos in the storeroom? Wear them. And if you want some kind of lace-up Roman sandals or fur boots go for them; think about how you are going to work them into your ensemble. There's always a way. Shoes can be one of the most creative aspects of pulling your look together . . .

All photos by Oeil Photography/All Rights Reserved

WHAT'S NEXT? FASHION 2008 AND BEYOND

Photo by Oeil Photography

Dress by Alley Cat

I have my crystal ball out today. I’ve learned nailing next season’s chic has more to do with experience (age) and looking back to the future. I was twelve when Jackie Kennedy became Jackie Kennedy Onassis. She wore a white mini dress, a bow in her hair and had a groom twice her age on her arm. In the era of Jackie O, I remember the string of young brides breaking tradition as norm. Mia Farrow wore a silk suit when she married Frank Sinatra and Bianca wore a very wide brimmed picture hat when she and Mick Jagger tied the knot. Fast forward forty years. Camilla Parker-Bowles married Prince Charles in a coat and dress ensemble while movie bride Carrie Bradshaw donned a strapless ball gown with an avian headpiece. Wow! So what’s next?

Informal Dresses Again- Just like the sixties, weddings are still big events yes, but the times they are a' changin'. Some couples are scaling down and scaling down can mean on the dress as well as food and entertainment. We’re going to see more of a trend toward casual weddings, with designers offering informal yet stylish dresses. Let’s say the all day mega bash is fine for some but not every couple wants or can afford what comes with that lengthy guest list. So, we’re likely to see shorter hemlines like the one pictured above in exquisite, luxe fabrics as well as those easier fabrics we’ve missed for so long like cotton, linen, eyelet and embroidered organdy. This will create a whole new niche for designers—to still work with some awesome fabrics, but a on a different level.

Photo by ejones photography/All rights reserved
Two piece and Interchangeables-The trend for interchangables is growing. We’ll definitely be seeing more of these ensembles like the one pictured above. Underneath a swathe of tulle skirt is a silk sheath. An interchangeable is a look that can go from ceremony to reception—coats over sheaths in exquisite fabrics like brocades and failles, hook on/off over skirts in tulle and organza that can go to ceremony with one look, reception another.

The Suit. No matter how simple or paired down a gown can get, some women just can’t get into wearing a dress even on their wedding day. For this reason the suit is destined to become a stylish alternative. Though suits haven’t quite taken off down the NY runways, hopefully designers will heed the call of the suit and send it into flight soon. Like the sheath, a classic suit is long and columnar only in two-pieces with a jacket and straight skirt. There are of course exceptions like the one pictured above. Skirt shapes can be flared like A-lines or take on full bell contours even under man-tailored jackets. Pantsuits are another option with pant legs varying from slim cigarette widths to wide culotte cuts. If you’re uneasy wearing a dress, by all means, consider a suit one of your choices.

GUY CHIC

I've been blogging now for a month and a half and realize I need to spend quality time with the grooms. For me, wedding fashion is fascinating because most bridal silhouettes are borrowed from evening wear and I love, love, love dressing up to go to out at night. Well, after some research, I'm finding mens formal wear is just as fascinating. Did you know the tux and tails so popular in wedding and formal fashion derive from hunting jackets and military uniforms?

Photos courtesy of Selix. http://www.selix.com/

Guys really have it easy. Typically, a groom and his groomsmen can shop a couple months pre-wedding for their tuxes and look great whereas a bride and her party seem to have to spend months devoted to the dress search. After the dress is found that's not the end of it. There are months of fittings, choosing colors for bridesmaids, etc. Shopping becomes a social thing with mothers and bridesmaids--something that could easily turn into a hobby.

For grooms choosing a tux or formal wear has never been so streamlined. Today you just point and click. The tux at left is classic; I found it on Selix, one of the most comprehensive websites for formalwear and this is only one of many styles offered.

To read more about mens formal wear, I wrote an article for Pash Weddings on the subject. :http://www.pashweddings.com/content/articles/122/1/Groom-Chic-A-Look-at-Traditional-Formalwear/Page1.html