Friday, 14 August 2009

ODE TO THE BIAS CUT

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Long before the development of knits, the bias cut was used for body-hugging silhouettes like the dress on Jean Harlow above. It all started back in the 1920s when a Parisian couturier, Madeleine Vionette developed a technique using the true cross grain of fabric. Defined, a bias cut simply means the pattern pieces are placed on the cross grain rather than straight grain lines of weft or warp of the fabric. By 1930, Hollywood designers took advantage of this cut and made it into a real trend. So what are the advantages of a bias cut gown? Fit. Gowns cut on the true bias hug and cling to the hips and midriff and fall beautifully. Many times they seem like a second skin.


Temperly
Temperly

Jasper Conran

Not all gowns are allover bias cuts. The Candy Anthony confections below have a very full bias cut skirt and fitted bodice on grain. 1950s silhouettes employed the circular skirt that when put on the true bias, moves beautifully when you walk. It also takes many yards of fabric to create.

Candy Anthony

Thursday, 13 August 2009

THE BEST OF IRISH COUTURE

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I know, I know, there are a few other designers in Ireland but here is, in my good opinion, the finest. Just look what my good friend Bonzie is up to these days. The above skirt that reminds me of something an angel would wear is made to order with yards and yards of tulle. Most of the designs on Bonzie's Etsy site are like those shown here: a combo of SteamPunk meets Victoriana. One of Etsy's golden sellers, Bonzie is made up of aunt and niece design team Ger and Bonzie. Two creative minds equal one magnificent design at a time.


Like myself, Bonzie also writes about her craft. Check out her Tattered Couture Column in the latest issue of Belle Amoire, a cutting edge mag devoted to showcasing the work of wearable art designers.

Wednesday, 12 August 2009

TRAVELING WITH YOUR WEDDING GOWN


The gown and you in it are central to your wedding day. Getting not only your gown but yourself and all your accessories from one point to another is something you need to think about whether you're navigating across town or half way around the world. Things might go a little easier if you've invested in a dress made out of microfibers (yes silk can be microfiber); you'll have little worry about it wrinkling. In most cases your dress will consist of delicate silk with legnth and volume (many underslips and linings) that need to be kept intact.

By Car
Getting your gown home safely from the shop is the first step. You’re going to have to treat it with all the love and care of a newborn. No, you won’t need an infant seat but just about any size back seat of a car will do. In all probability once delivered, your gown will be packed in plastic, the bodice stuffed with tissue. Hang it on the hook above the back door draped across the back seat. This applies if you're going on a two block or two thousand mile trip.
AIR TRAVEL- With so many destination weddings these days, salons and stores have special procedures preparing your gown for not only that car trip home but air travel. You need to decide whether or not you're checking your gown as baggage or carrying it on board the plane. Either way there are pluses and minuses. Once upon a time carry on was a given. No matter how BIG your gown--and some gowns run very big-- the stewardesses found a way to look after it. Since then the friendly skies have become so heavily booked, unless you travel first class, space is going to be tight. If your gown isn't too poufy and more of a sheath than ball gown, the overhead bin will work. Take into mind this a good-to-go situation only if there's no other baggage crushing your gown.

To avoid hassles during check in, be certain beforehand the box or bag holding your gown is an approved size. Yes, some airplanes don't have additional room for oversized carry-on pieces so make arrangements with them before purchasing your ticket. Some airlines allow the cabin coat closets in first-class to be used for bridal gowns even if you're flying coach. However, doing my research I found some airlines are better than others on this. Again, MAKE ARRANGEMENTS BEFOREHAND!

CHECK IN

You've met folks who never check in luggage; they're afraid once they land in Boston their bags will turn up in Cleveland. Well, imagine asking a bride to check her gown as baggage. If you're brave enough to consider it, think of little old me, a fashion desgner who must fly with five gowns at a time, that, by the way, just like your gown, need to arrive in New York in pristine condition (otherwise they don't sell). I have no choice but to check them as baggage so here's what I do. Since I'm a pro I know how to pack them. Your store can do this for you. All you need do is decide on whether you want to pack the gown in a box (salon's job but you can do it) or suitcase (your job).
I've done both.

Box
Use a large box, about one-third the length of the front of your gown.
Line the box with tissue and lay the gown over it. Your gown should be centered in the box and laid face down, spread flat out. This way you can avoid any wrinkles or creases from forming.
Now, start with the side seams and fold your skirt length-wise all the way over the tissue. Your skirt should not exceed the width of the box.
This is when you add more tissue and fold the top of the gown over into the box.
The top of the gown (bodice) will be facing up. Now use more tissue and pack the bodice, cushioning anything else (florals, bows, belts, sleeves) that should be protected. When you are finished, the dress should really be packed in tight so as not to move around in the box.

Suitcase

If your gown is a generous A-line or ballgown complete with petticoat, you need to go for the biggest suitcase you can find. Otherwise, like the box, find a suitcase about a third of the size of your gown. Your gown should be the only piece of anything you pack in the case other than tissue. Follow the same proceedure you would for packing your gown in a box, especially the part about stuffing the bodice with tissue. This way your gown can retain its shape.

Garment Bag

The first thing about bagging a gown in a garment bag is finding out where the dress hangers are. Most gowns have these little hangers resembling straps that keep the stress off the shoulders. They are typically found at either the armhole or waistline. After hanging the gown up on a padded hanger, pack the gown with tissue in the bodice so it keeps the shape. If there is a full skirt, pack the bottom of the bag so the skirt rests on it to eliminate stresss to the hemline.

TRAIN AND SHIP TRAVEL
CRUSIN'

Brides either marrying onboard or sailing to their destination via cruise ship generally have few worries. Closet space is available and pressing services onboard ship are top notch. This of course depends on the cruiseline. I've heard horror stories about cheap cruiselines with bathrooms so small your shower is in the toilet. Think Cunard, Norweigian, Royal Carribian and you're in a major city floating on water, everything you ever wanted readily available. Same goes without saying for private yachts. Shorter cruises on, say, ferries are trickier but usually have more closet space than that aboard a plane or train.


ALL ABOARD! THE TRUTH ABOUT TRAINS

Once upon a time in America this was one of the most common and luxurious forms of long distance travel. No more. Over time train travel has lost its chic factor. But for those who have a morbid phobia about flying or just plain love going by train, here's the scoop. Trains offer a little more space for moving around from compartment to compartment than planes do. You'd think this would mean more room to hang a gown but when I spoke to the Amtrack agent she said it's either the overhead bin or baggage car for the gown. Since Amtrack is the only game in town if you're getting from point to point in the USA, please avoid coach unless you are going a short distance. Then, use the above info to box your gown and check it in as baggage (yes box--your gown. The way they throw baggage around your gown will be packed tight in the box) If you're going a little further than say Buffalo to NYC: go for one of the larger compartments if you can. Here's the link for finding the right sleeping car which invaribly means having your own space to guard your prized pocession.
Train travel through Europe is a little different and more common. Schedules there actually run on time and go faster than their American cousins. Going short distances via coach, the space problem still exists so you can do one of two things: either box your gown and check it in as baggage or buy an extra seat on which to put it. Take into mind there are many more train routes that go through Europe. This means whether your destination is a major city or smaller village, a train either runs through it or nearby. Check online if you are traveling through Europe or Asia and find out as much as you can about space.


Once you reach your destination remove the dress from the bag and make sure to put it on a padded hanger. An alternative to the padded hanger is my hanging dress form above. This is a display hanger I use in the studio to show off my designs. They have another function: keeping your gown shaped and taking the stress off the shoulders or from whatever point your dress hangs. You can order one from Robert Hamm
If you can invest in a portable steamer, do it. They're twice as fast as the conventional iron and give a clean, finished look. As with over pressing, the steamer if held too close can water spot silk. A small travel iron is great for getting all those corners and pleats. Having a portable stemer and travel iron both is ideal. The optimal option if you can arrange it is getting your gown professionally pressed once you reach your destination.

Other Options and Tips

*If you don't want to travel with your gown have your salon, dressmaker or yourself ship the gown ahead to its destination. Out of the big three--UPS, Fed Ex and the US Postal Service, the latter is the cheapest way to go. Brides have always exercised this 'Send my things on ahead' option by arranging for a friend, family member or hotel/venue/consultant to sign for it. Thus, this has become so convenient for destination brides, many hotels and venues are signing for the wedding dress as part of their service.

*Pack your bridal accessories for travel seperately from your gown. Once you reach that beautiful destination you can assemble your whole ensemble.

*More suggestions about pressing: If your gown is made out of tulle, don’t you dare press it! Steam it instead. The same goes for your veil; ironing scorches tulle.

*Pressing hard to get at wrinkles out of your gown is done with a cool, dry iron over a piece of broadcloth or muslin, called a press mitt. Forget worrying too much about wrinkling your gown going to and from the ceremony. Just push the bulk of your skirt aside once you’re in the car--that is, if you will be in a car or carriage.

Tuesday, 11 August 2009

LITERARY FASHION: A LOOK AT MADMEN AND WOMEN

Season 3 dresses by designer Janie Bryant
January Jones in one of Janie Bryant's creations

Partial cast of Madmen

Earlier this year my husband and I were in Southern California for a photo shoot. Wandering around Century City shops on a sunny afternoon, we stumbled into a store featuring furnishings straight out of the 1960s. When I commented to the owner her merchandise looked just like the sets on Madmen she answered, "These are the sets they use on Madmen. . ."
I should have known before I even asked. My passion for Jackie Kennedyesque fashion along with an appreciation for top notch storytelling has kept me pasted to the TV every Sunday night since Madmen's inception back in 2007. Not taken with the bulk of what contemporary television offers outside PBS and Sex and the City, Madmen is the exception. What intrigues me most about this nominated for 16 Emmies series? Other than the impeccable sets and costume perhaps its the flawed and sometimes twisted characters I've come to love. And nobody's selling me morality or role models on this tune-in-after-10PM-time-slot. In fact, for me the storyline is kind of wonky and sometimes has no arc at all; but that's okay. Loose ends that tie up so predictably in most hour long shows are here often left alone, even unsettled at season's end. Maybe Madmen has real meat on its bones because by today's standards its not politically correct; it tells life the way it was back then: men ordering up and expecting Sanka served by secretaries and wives--most of whom work the subservient role to their advantage. In other words, like its anti-hero Don Draper, Madmen doesn't apologize for being all we broke away from and evolved into since the 60s.
A lot of this episodic story is told through costuming. Til Madmen I hadn't realized how much we of the Millennium hungered for that new hero even if he comes to us in vintage form as a man in gray flannel. Madmen's creator, Matthew Weiner has taken us beyond the Ayn Rand/Film Noir arch-types with Don Draper, a perfect frame for all the plumed and colorful women populating the series. Whether its Joan in one of her jewel toned sheaths or Betty Draper sporting a poufy-skirted hourglass, we're in love with the basic shapes and silhouettes of this era. Designer Janie Bryant has done a marvelous job creating 'the look' for this series. Her expertise and skill reaches into the uses of texture and fiber of the times--one important element in getting the look truly authentic. Season 3 premieres August 16 on AMC. God knows I'm waiting for a wedding to happen on this series. While the glimpses we have of Betty Draper's evening get-ups do enchant, I really want to see what Janie has up her sleeve once somebody finally says, "I do".

Monday, 10 August 2009

STALKING THE LOOKBOOKS: JASPER CONRAN

I'm loving everything about the Spring/Summer 2009 Jasper Conran collection. Luxe fabrics and flattering silhouettes are just the beginning. There's not a gown in this vast collection I don't absolutely love . . .











Sunday, 9 August 2009

THE PERFECT SUMMER PALETTE

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I found this tones of red gem on The Perfect Palette. I'm taken with how everything here balances and relates. The color scheme is actually cranberry and plum . . . perfect for the farm theme of the actual wedding . . .

Saturday, 8 August 2009

PETER FOX SHOES

Want to go more than a bit vintage on your wedding day? Try slipping your tootsies into something by Peter Fox. For years this Canadian designer has had the edge on the theatrical when it comes to footwear and looks so authentic to the times he is recreating . . .