CUTTING EDGE RETRO

Belville Sassoon

Vintage is so popular now it’s evolved into it’s very own echelon of fashion. There’s real retro as in the authentic Dior A-line from 1957 in mint condition; there’s museum quality stuff from the last century that probably requires restoration experts, and there’s everything you see here that I’d call vintage inspired gowns by top designers. Most designers have retro inspired pieces in their collections now. Monique Lhuillier and Claire Pettibone’s gowns are reminiscent of 1930s-40s chic. Candy Anthony and Stephanie James are turning out dresses you’d swear your grandmother wore in the 1950s. A few designers are going way back in time recreating anything from Marie Antoinette to Greek chic. Younger designers seem intrigued with recent fashion history reinventing their own 60s-70s looks.

Sposabella
The hat above echoes Jackie Kennedy's look while the dress below looks like a granny gown from the hip 1970s.
Alberta Ferretti
Whether the gown was inspired by Napoleon’s Regency Period or Mary Quant, one thing all these designers and their gowns have in common is the cutting edge factor. You see, retro inspired means just that: something about the gown evokes yesteryear only there’s that unmistakable twist of contemporary thrown in for the here and now bride.

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Lately, with concern for the environment, there are brides using vintage fabrics from lace tablecloths and linens and turning them into some very lovely bridal wear. I guess that’s what it means when you hear, “Everything old is new again . . .”

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Candy Anthony
Not only the length of this dress says 1950s. Candy Anthony's hourglass silhouette has this era's bodice detail right down to to the prim collar and row of buttons down the front.

Oscar de la Renta
This Oscar de la Renta above is from no era in particular but the way it's accessorized brings to mind the 20s with the cloche hat, 30s with the gown and gloves. Looks like something that might have been worn to the once popular daytime social.

Elizabeth Fillmore

Castigliano International

Maria Grachvogel

To me this is another look encompassing a few eras. The gown above definitely looks 1930s, her hair 90s and the tiara 60s.

PHOTOGRAPHY SPOTLIGHT: ALEX RODRIGUEZ

Alex sent me the above photo of this great dress he shot recently. Once I checked out a couple more pics I just had to post and share what I could of Annie and David's Key West Wedding. The message here is, when you find the right dress, it's easy to tie in the rest of the wedding. The theme was definitely destination tropical.

Annie's gown was actually designed by one of her bridesmaids. This same wonderful bridesmaid designed the maids dresses too. I love the range of different styles she permitted everyone in her party. Notice how they all have stayed within the pastel and soft texture family without going so matchy-matchy with it.

Thanks to Alex Rodriguez for sharing these exquisite photographs and of course Annie and David for inviting us to share their day. Some more very talented people helped coordinate Annie and David's wedding to make it all the more special; here are a few of them:

Venue-Southernmost House

EGO Events, Galas and Occasions

Key West Cakes

Aveda Salon and Day Spa

Great Events Catering

You can check out more work of Alex Rodriguez either on his site wwwAlexRodriguezPhotography.com or his blog.

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY LYNDA BIRD JOHNSON ROBB

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On this day in 1967, President Lyndon Johnson's eldest daughter Lynda married Marine Captain Charles Robb in a White House all decked out for Christmas. Seven bridesmaids were in floor-length red velvet gowns. Among the guests was former first daughter Alice Roosevelt who also married in the White House in 1906.

Lynda's designer was Geoffrey Beene. She chose this empire sheath silhouette in a winter-weight peau satin. Notice the border of heavy lace running vertically up the front of the gown creating an apron-like effect. Trendy at the time, was her detachable Watteau train that fell from her shoulders. Topping it off, she wore a pill box cap with a blusher and very long pouf veil.
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Lynda and father, LBJ
Lynda's dress looks a little like Priscilla Presley's who also married in 1967. Bridal wear in the 50s-60s didn't reflect current couture as much as it does today. Nor was there much freedom to expose decolletage, arms, cleavage and backs unless you were something of a rebel bride. There were so many restrictions and rules brides had to follow, so that compared to today, a bridal gown sometimes seemed more like a lace and satin uniform.

So what are these two love birds Lynda and Chuch doing these days? Still solid. Since 1967, Chuck Robb has had a successful political career, serving as governor and two senate terms; Lynda is active in children's literacy programs.

COUTURE REPORT: FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

Slava Zaitzev

Actually folks, Moscow Fashion Week was a couple months back so these images are not as hot off the fire as they look. They are stunning though and I've always admired the Russian knack for putting their own stamp on fashion when free to source time and materials.

Valetin Yudashinkin

A model displays a creation by Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin during Fashion week in Moscow, Wednesday, Oct. 22, 2008.
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Valentin Yudashinkin

Valentin Yudashinkin

Valentin Yudashinkin

To find out more about Valentin Yudashinkin check out his website at www.yudashkin.com. Personally I found his company's history page interesting even though his site has a kind of corporate feel to it.

CELEBRATING THE RUFFLE

No way are all ruffles standard. Because there are so many different kinds, a whole book could be written in praise of them. As you've probably figured out from the above photo, ruffles can be worn head to toe on bodice, sleeve, skirt or train. And don't forget those accessories. I've seen shoes, purses, gloves, hats and veils layered in ruffles. Below are just a few treatments, mostly skirts, celebrating the ruffle.

Stephanie Allin

Elisabeth B

Elisabeth B

Above is not a ruffle so much as pick-up or bustling effect creating a lower ruffle as bustling does.

Juliet
Asymmetrical ruffles

Dalin

Sarah Houston

Most ruffles run horizontally; the ones on the Sarah Houston gown above fall vertically instead creating a cascading kind of waterfall effect.

Christian Lacroix
Looks like Lacroix innovated some sort of ribbon ruffle above. That's what geniuses do . . .

Joan Shum
Max Chaoul

These skirts by Joan Shum and Max Chaoul have ruching treatments. Ruching is one form of ruffling. The ruffle is typically center gathered rather than top gathered. Many gowns in the 1930s era had ruched sleeves, skirts and trains.

Ritva Westenius

Max Chaoul

Max Chaoul bordered the asymmetrical ruffles on the above gown with white satin ribbon.

Denise Frigerio
The photos above and below have pleated ruffles. Generally pleateds are made out of light, crisp fabrics like organza and have lettuce hemlines, producing that Fortunyesque pleat effect.

Denise Frigerio

Denise Frigerio

The bias cut ruffles above are not gathered up top to create a pouffy effect. Instead they're typically cut in a circular pattern on the bias so they fall gently. Many gowns from the 1930s are famous for their layers of bias cut ruffles

Francesca Zurlo
This Zurlo gown above is a combination of gathered ruffles and lace.

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My favorite--lace ruffles. There are 14 tiers in all here. Borders like this in Chantilly and Peau d'ange are particularly beautiful